WILD COAST MEANDER

The Wild Coast Meander is a hike along the Transkei Coast in the Eastern Cape.  Virtually the entire coast is an untouched paradise with little development beyond a couple of small towns and the occasional family-orientated, very comfortable holiday resort.  We stayed overnight at beach resorts which offer hikers a seaview bedroom-en-suite, breakfast, dinner and a packed lunch for the next day. The meals were a mix of comfort food, homecooked and healthy at all the resorts.  No junk!  Different guides from the local community lead each group, the cost being part of the package.  This puts much needed income into the wildcoast communities and ensures that your security is looked after, and porters can be hired at a set, but not inflated, cost. 

The July school holidays was the perfect time to do this walk as it is the time of year with the lowest rainfall. Despite this, there are river mouths every 8km or so, which are very easy to cross, either barefoot, or by ferry which costs  R1.00 or R2.00 per person.  The hike can be done over five nights, with a night at each beach resort, or longer if you choose to spend more time at one or more of the resorts.

Picnic Lunch

We drove from Cape Town to East London using the taxi route - N1 to Beaufort West, then through Aberdeen and Graaff-Reinet.   I was told that the taxis do not travel to the Eastern Cape on a Saturday, the day we left, so this was a unanimous first choice.  The N2 has become overcrowded with traffic and busy towns, and has a constantly changing speed limit with the inevitable speed traps which all adds up to a stressful journey. 

In East London, our booking at Arbour Lodge, Beacon Bay was good value compared to everything else on offer – R600 for four of us for the night.  At 9.00 am we met up with Helen from Wild Coast Adventures who had organised secure parking for our car, lunch packs and a mini-bus to take us to the first overnight stop – Kob Inn.

Grassed area in front of the rooms.  

Kob Inn, a 3 ½ hour drive from East London, 32 kms and 45 minutes of which is on a rutted gravel road which is apparently a whole lot better than it used to be!  

Kob Inn is a very attractive beach resort  built close to the sea.  During the afternoon our daughters went quadbiking led by the Chef, Dean and we canoed up the Qora River.  Sunday supper was a braai served overlooking on the terrace overlooking the sea – at spring high tide I think we would have been splashed by waves.

Cattle herders with their cattle

Our guide for the first day of hiking, Phillip was an interesting mix of Khoisan, Xhosa and European descent which gave real meaning to the term, Rainbow Nation.  He was only too happy to answer all our questions and he told us his family history, as well as Xhosa traditions.  As we walked along the coast we became aware of the multi-cultured history of the area, which originally is Khoisan,  then mixed with the Xhosa people as they moved further south and the shipwrecked Europeans/Asians as explored in the book “The Sunburnt Queen”, followed by the 1820 settlers from Europe who landed at Grahamstown and the subsequent frontier wars.   The first day Kob Inn and Mazeppa Bay is a short walk of 6kms along beach and grassed fields which reach down to the rocks along this coast.

Ferry crossing!

Mazeppa Bay in the distance

At our second beach resort, Mazeppa Bay, the receptionist gave us a warm welcome and showed us around.  This was our only overnight stop which had a gym – worth a visit for the recliner which can be set to massage leg and back muscles.  The highlight of Mazeppa Bay Hotel was the island which is connected to the mainland by a rope bridge.  It was well frequented by fishermen, and sunset on the well-grassed little island is not to be missed.

Waiting for the ferry to cross to the Wavecrest

Phillip continued to walk with us for 10km of the distance to our next hotel – the Wavecrest – a long 22km day’s walk.  Along the route he pointed out a shell midden left behind by Khosisan people living along  the coast many years ago.  All the walks are a mix of beach walking and grassed fields with occasional cattle and rivers which are crossed on foot or by ferry.   There are many fresh water springs along this section of the coast –  no evidence that this water is used by anyone, except maybe the occasional cow.

On the way to our tour of the Mangrove Swamps

The Wavecrest Hotel is situated on the southern side of an estuary formed by the confluence of the Ngqusi and Nxaxo Rivers which has the southern most mangrove swamps.    A tour of the mangrove swamp area by a very knowledgeable guide was included in the cost of the hotel.  Not often you get something for nothing extra!!   After a swim across the river, the four of us booked the spa, sauna and steam room for an hour to relax tired muscles.  Twenty-two kilometres of walking along the beach and grassed areas which sloped down to the sea for most of the day had left us stiff and sore.

On Trevor's Trail from Trenneries

The third day of walking was about 14 km which had a half way lunch stop at the Jacaranda, a vessel wrecked in 1971.   We could see the position of the Trenneries Hotel, our stop for the night, from a few kilometres away as it was marked by a tall Pine Tree.  On arrival we found the Pine Tree to be a cell phone tower.  The Trenneries Hotel was another great experience – warm and inviting with excellent food.

Pontoon across the Great Kei River

Our last day of hiking was longer than the advertised 12 km according to the GPS.   Shortly before the eat Kei River is the Gxarha River River where Nongqawuse had her vision which led to the cattle killing and mass poverty and death among the Xhosa people.   The Great Kei River crossed by is a pontoon which can take walkers and traffic. On the opposite bank of the Kei River was our lunch stop with a wooden table, seating and a rather rickety
roof.  Our packed lunch from Trenneries was the best of all - chicken leg, grilled fish, sandwich and fruit.

The last hotel in Morgan Bay,  was a real treat!   Morgan Bay Hotel has a spectacular view of the sea from the rooms and we were served an excellent dinner menu which had starters, soup, fish, main course and dessert.

Final lunch stop on the banks of the Great Kei River

The next day we were picked up and driven back to our car in secure lockup in East London. 

We had a brief stopover in the Sundays River Valley for a days visit to Addo Elephant Park, and  choose the R62 for the drive home.

If you don’t know the R62, choose this route next time you head up the east coast and visit Ronnies Sex Shop for a lunch stopover.  (Not as it sounds!)

SUNSET AT KLOOF CORNER

On a warm, still evening you would be hard-pressed to find a more beautiful spot at sunset than Kloof Corner which is at the north-west corner of Table Mountain, 30 minutes walk up from the road to the lower cable station.  There is a magnificent 270° view  back along the front of Table Mountain,  the City Bowl and the harbour, Lion’s Head and Signal Hill, and over Kloof Nek to Camps Bay and along the Twelve Apostles towards Llandudno.   

Lion's Head, Signal Hill and a glimpse of the City Bowl

Signal Hill, City Bowl and Table Bay

Sit on the flat-topped rocks which retain the heat of the day,  glass in hand with your snacks spread around you.

Ready-made Stone Chairs

Time your walk so that you start when the heat of the day is over, and you have about an hour to sit on the rocks and watch the sun go down.  Do not forget a torch to help you on your way down, but if the moon is full there may be sufficient light to walk down without one.

At Kloof Nek circle, take the Lower Cableway Station Road for about 500 metres, and at a hair-pin bend there is parking on your left.  The way up is at the bend in the road.  The path starts out gently but soon becomes rather steep and you will walk up  a well-maintained set of steps, made in different styles.  Some are made using stones encased in strong wire, others are cut from the sandstone on the path, but you do have to be careful of your footing. 

Walking up - the path becomes very much steeper than this!

Enjoying the Warm Rocks.

When you reach the top which is just below the rockface, first prize is to find you are the only people there, and you can take your pick of picnic spots.   Settle down on the rocks, and spread  yourselves out, glasses in hand and snacks balanced on the rocks.

City Bowl Lights

Sunset over Clifton Beaches

When the sun has set, take out your torches (head torches would make the walk down easier) and make your way down back to the cars.  

THE POSTBERG TRAIL

Every time we do an overnight hike with a group of friends, we are reminded how privileged we are in South Africa to have these wonderful facilities in wilderness areas and National Parks. 

A friend had a booking for a party of 12 for the Postberg hike in the West Coast National Park.  This two-day hike is only available during August and September when the Spring wild flowers are at their best.  He phoned the Park office 15 minutes before the opening time on the first day of booking (1^st June) to find that there was only one weekend still not booked ??!!   Needless to say, he booked it. 

The slopes of the Postberg with Langebaan Lagoon in the background

The West Coast National Park is north of Cape Town and south of Langebaan and Saldanha Bay.  There are limited overnight facilities which means taking a tent and a high density foam mattress.  There is an ablution block with toilets and basins (cold water), a couple of tables, braai facilities with wood, and grids and a portable wash-up stand are provided.  The overall distance of the hike is 27.3km, the first day being 15.5km and the second day 11.8km. (maximum number of people in group – 12)  Water is only available at the start and at the overnight camp, so water bottles must be carried.

The mouth of the Lagoon meets the Atlantic Ocean

We left Cape Town at 7.15 on the Saturday morning,  arriving at the Park at 8.45.  There is secure parking at the start of the hike.   The first  stretch of  the hike crosses a  plain covered with yellow, orange and white and lilac daisies – a sight that was repeated every time we  crossed a plain.  The route is not particularly strenuous, but does have some good uphill stretches  with magnificent views of the Langebaan lagoon and the coast.

Looks like sand in the distance, but those are flowers!

A brief stop among the daisies

The overnight stop is on the coast at facilities which are used by day visitors until 5.00p.m.  So if you are expecting to camp in a remote untouched wilderness area, you will be disappointed.  But then once the day visitiors had left, the ablution block was cleaned and the wood and grids and wash-up stand were delivered. 

Drinks at Sunset

Red sails in the Sunset?

Once the tents were pitched and hiking clothes changed, we gathered on the rocks next to the sea for drinks at sunset.   And then came our evening braai and good conversation.  And,  of course, with night came absolute quiet, except for occasional snuffling and other animal noises.

On the second day the trail passes the  cars after about 6 kms where heavy packs can be offloaded.  We then walked about 2.5kms along 16-mile beach which took us in sight of a wreck.  The path turns into the dunes where we sat and had a light lunch, and then turns and heads back along behind the dunes.  The second day was very much easier, partly made so by being able to do the beach walk without packs.

Oystercatchers and Kelp Gulls

The turnoff with the wreck in the background.

If you are still hungry, or did not bring lunch, there is a shop near the cars at the end of the trail which sells books, hamburgers, hot dogs, drinks, chocolate and chips

For bookings during August and September phone 022 707 9902/3 (before 8.00a.m. if you want a weekend) on the 1^st June.

http://www.sanparks.net/parks/west_coast/all.php#postberg

SIMONSTOWN - WALK TO ADMIRAL'S WATERFALL AND KAYAKING IN FALSE BAY

Our intention had been to join a group of paddlers leaving Long Beach, Simonstown at 9.30, but when we arrived the wind was too strong, so we came up with Plan B.  A walk to explore Simonstown moving in the direction of Admiral’s Waterfall.   We visited the tourist information office, next to Jubilee Square,  and were directed to a 15-minute scenic walk starting on the corner of the Main Road (St George’s Street) and Rectory Lane,   leading up to Runciman Drive.   If you head out for a walk with a positive spirit and an enquiring mind, you will find something of interest.  And we did!

                                                                    

The start of Rectory Lane was reminiscent of the narrow pathways one finds in the coastal villages around the Mediterranean – all it needed was a pot or two of red geraniums.   If you are going up, all roads lead to Runciman Drive.  From there it is a short walk along Victory Way or Barnard Street to the Signal School or Klaver steps, which lead up to  the grave of Just Nuisance, a war memorial and an old hospital.    The Steps head up and up, and every time you think you are at the top, there is another corner and more steps, with the quaintest stone walls on either side.  There must be several hundred steps!

At the top are a group of old, rather dilapidated, official buildings.  There is a monument to men from the Simonstown Naval Base who died during the First World War and the grave of Just Nuisance, a Great Dane who from 1939 to 1944 served with the Royal Navy, on the base ship HMS Afrikander, and is thought to be the only dog ever to do so.  Click here for more about 'Just Nuisance'.

The ‘official buildings’ used to be the Naval Sanatorium  - completed in 1904, the Sanatorium was for the care of sick and injured seamen.  It was once an attractive building and is needing  care and restoration and would make a perfect museum/restaurant/concert venue.   The metal structures leading up to the top of the mountain were once part of a cable car system linking the dockyard with the hospital.  It was initially used to transport materials, equipment and labour, and then staff and patients.  An efficient method of keeping convalescent patients away from the less salubrious aspects of life in Simonstown.

                Klaver Steps

Our next stop was the Waterfall.  If you turn left when you come back down to the bottom of  Klaver Steps, follow Barnard street until you come to the gravel path which leads to the Falls – about a 15 minute walk.  At the bottom of the Waterfall is a dam that served as a weir once collecting and providing a source of fresh water for Simonstown.  It is not difficult to walk through the water, and clamber over a few rocks for a short walk up the kloof.

We then made our way back to St George’s Street having walked the best part of three hours.

Note the weir wall - we have not had much rain!

Looking at Simonstown from the Waterfall

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The wind was by now noticeably gentler and the sea looked calmer.  It looked like a perfect winter's day for a paddle - crisp and clear with little wind. There is a launching area for kayaks at Bertha’s Landing, and good parking on either side of the beach.  The water in the yacht harbour area was quite smooth but as we rounded the ‘bullnose’ we hit a bit of turbulence from the water bouncing back from the wall.  The water did calm down as we paddled to Ark Rock, then turned towards Windmill Beach and back towards the harbour. 

Anyone wanting to try some kayaking with a group of paddlers who launch from Simonstown  - who knows you may become a regular - go to the Paddlers' website  and the Cape Kayakers blog.

More about kayaking in a later post.

BLOUBERG - THE MyCiTi BUS AND CYCLING

Yip, we took those bikes out of the storeroom, last used in May 2010.   We have been wanting to try out the first MyCiTi bus route and Sunday was the perfect day.  Blue sky, no wind and not too cold - a perfect Cape Town winter's day.

The Terminus at the Civic Centre

The cycle ride along the Main Road to the terminus beneath the Civic Centre in the CBD took us 30 minutes.  Then we became tourists in our home town - tickets for two of us were R10.00 each. (bikes go for free).   We then had to join the correct queue for Table View, not the Airport, Gardens, or Waterfront queues.  We waited about 10 minutes for a bus. Although bicycles are allowed on the buses, it would be better to enter the doors towards the front of the bus - opposite these doors is the area for wheelchairs and bicycles.  Wheelchairs get preference, so wait for the next bus if the space is taken by a wheelchair.  Bicycles lean up against three seats facing the door and are strapped in with the seat belts.   If those seats are already taken, wait for the next bus unless there are other seats available and the passengers do not mind moving.   Bit tricky this!  Bicycles are not allowed on the buses during rush hour on weekdays.  http://www.capetown.gov.za/en/Myciti/Pages/default.aspx

Our bus was full  (about 1.30p.m). - so we had to stand next to our bikes, but there are sufficient straps to hang on to.  The great thing about being a tourist in your home town, is that you begin to behave like one, and start talking to others on the bus.  The bus route goes along the railway line out of town, until it takes a left turn under the N1, and follows the old railway line through the centre of Paarden Eiland.  The line crosses the Black River canal, turns onto Marine Drive and keeps to the centre of the road until it reaches Table View. The Table View terminus is at the beginning of Blaauwberg Road.  We hauled our bikes off the bus, and looked around, trying to work out where to catch our bus to Blaauwbergstrand.  The buses to Parklands and Blaauwbergstrand leave from the same building closer to the West  Coast Road.  Inside the terminus are plans of each route with the stops listed. (as in the Paris or London Underground) Once on the bus we could work out where the best stop for us was - Kleinbaai which took us very close to Onse Huisie where we sat outside under an umbrella with a view of the sea and ordered lunch - chicken salad and a pepper burger.  Onse Huisie was very full and the service took longer than expected for a late lunch!!

The beach at Blouberg

We had decided to ride back along the cycle route.  This is a must-do for every Sunday cyclist. We followed the beach until we turned up Otto du Plessis Drive.  At the Blaauwberg Road/West Coast Road corner in Table View, we turned onto the cycle track which follows the MyCiTi bus route. The route is along the coast side of the road until Paarden Eiland when you swing inland.  Except for a short way on the pavement, you are separated from the cars by a planted verge.

Milnerton Lagoon

Cycling out of Paarden Eiland

At the Lower Church Street bridge, it is possible to leave the cycle route by riding up to the bridge along a pedestrian way, and  ride to Lower Main Road (Albert Road) or the Main Road. We cycled home along Lower Main Road.  (1 hour and 30 minutes from Blaauwberg to home)

NIEUWOUDTVILLE AND OORLOGSKLOOF

We enjoy exploring new places and hiking, and wanted to organise a five day hike in a new area for a group of hiking friends.  We heard about the Oorlogskloof Nature Reserve, near Nieuwoudtville, which sounded as if it might be worth further research.  The Reserve has three day hikes of varying lengths and two longer hikes (4-5 days and 5-7 days).  We decided to take a few days off and do an advance recce.

One of the cracks on the Trail - there are a
few ladders to negotiate.

We left Cape Town on a Sunday morning, and arrived at our self-catering cottage  – ‘Bokmakierie’ shortly after 2.00p.m.   Bokmakierie is on a smallholding on the outskirts of Nieuwoudtville, but is within walking distance of the  village (5 minutes).    We settled in and slowly started to unwind, and appreciate the view from the kitchen door -  the sheep next door,  a windmill close enough to hear it turning, and green fields as far as the eye could see (this was July!)   We  spent a couple of hours strolling round the village,  exploring some very old dilapidated stone houses,  and the stone buildings along the main road.   Back in our temporary home, we made a fire,  put our electric blankets on to warm up the bed, and curled up on the couch with a plate of spaghetti bolognaise and a couple of good books .   The next morning (Monday) we booked an evening meal at a restaurant in the Main Road – ‘Die Nedersetting’ and  picked up our permits at the Department of Nature Conservation for a day hike in the Oorlogskloof  Nature Reserve which is 16km out of Nieuwoudtville.  We choose the  Leopard Trap Day Hike which is 15.5km and passes a very old stone leopard trap and a magnificent view of the knersvlakte, (north of  Vanrhynsdorp) from the top of the escarpment.  The trail was pretty rugged for the first couple of kms, and we found ourselves clambering over large rocks, climbing ladders and squeezing through cracks on koppies.

 

The Leopard Trap

We wondered how we would fare with a heavy pack,  particularly after one km took us an hour to walk.   The trail soon became easier and we began to make good time.   The Reserve estimated the 15.5km would be a 6 to 9 hour hike.  We managed 6¼ hours, which excluded our stop for lunch.   The trail took us through  renosterbos and Bokkeveld fynbos.  We arrived back at the car feeling well exercised, and agreed that we would organise a group hike to return to Oorlogskloof Nature Reserve in late September.            http://www.footprint.co.za/oorlogskloof.htm

That evening was our ‘night out’ at 'Die Nedersetting'. We were greeted by Wessie  and  shown to our table in front of a roaring fire.  We  were able to ask for wine by the glass which suited us and, as we had chosen our meal  that morning,  we were soon tucking into venison pie and vegetables.  Wessie and Hester,  the  co-owners, were quite happy to answer our  questions about the town, ‘boerekos’ and tips on the cooking thereof,  and they told us about their ideas of expanding the accommodation and dining facilities.  We ordered malva pudding with custard for dessert, and coffee, and left feeling well warm, relaxed and well fed after perfect Afrikaner hospitality.      http://www.getaway.co.za/article/nedersetting-restaurant-Niewoudtville

Tuesday was our sightseeing day.  Nieuwoudtville has many beautiful, old, Victorian-style, sandstone buildings built from the locally quarried stone.  One such building is the Dutch Reformed church built with local, dressed sandstone  in 1906/7 on land donated by the Niewoudt brothers – well worth a visit.    The local garage has a fascinating collection of vintage motor bikes and dinky cars.

Nieuwoudtville Falls

A short way out of town, towards Loeriesfontein,  are the Nieuwoudtville Falls.   At the confluence of the Gras Rivier and Willem Rivier  which is called Maierskloof, are the falls.    Both the Gras and Willem Rivers begin closer to the edge of the escarpment and flow inland and together form the Doring River.  The falls are spectacular and fall 100 metres into a large pool far below in a deep ravine.

The road ends at Loeriesfontein which is a town well worth a visit.  The Fred Turner Museum has a fascinating collection of Afrikaner memorabilia and a collection of windmills.    The elderly curator heard that we were visiting, and came to open the hall specially for us!  

On the return trip, we took the detour to the Kokerboom or Quiver Tree forest. This is not far from the main road and is the largest and most southern forest of Aloe dichotoma.  These Aloes only grow on north-facing slopes and flower in June/July.

A Kokerboom in flower

We arrived back at ‘Bokmakierie' as the sun was setting and  braaied our locally bought lamb saddle chops and boerewors over the sitting room fire.  A perfect end to our day.

Wednesday was our ‘return home’ day.  We slowly packed up, fed our left-over milk to a wandering cat and  drove south towards the Matjiesfontein Farm Stall.  Unfortunately it is closed over winter, but we stopped at the glacial floor, 10km out of Nieuwoudtville.  These are tracks in the stone, formed by the movement of ice over Southern Africa when it migrated over the south pole about 300 million years ago.  Interesting,  and fascinating if you happen to be a geologist.

We would highly recommend a visit to Nieuwoudtville and the Oorglogskloof Nature Reserve for a short break.  We arrived back home refreshed, and well exercised having got good value for our money and time.